Giving Up On Fashion

Filling the Gap

2011-10-08T18:43:00.000-04:00

Big breasts and high-end fashion don't mix. That much I know, however, real women need real clothing. There is a gap in the market. Being a member of the BTC (that's big titty committee for those of you who don't know), and on a budget with a capital B, I really would rather shop for pants or accessories on any given day but I've been in need of new shirts for quite some time. Already frustrated with long tunics that look ridiculous on my 5'0 frame, I was not feeling optimistic when I headed out to Rittenhouse Square for some fall shopping.

I decided to try The Gap first because their sizes are made for women and not junior's, which is always reassuring when you are looking for something flattering and modest. To my surprise, there were several silhouettes I could wear ranging from the Gap Body department all the way to the display up front. I have never taken so many shirts into a fitting room! After trying on, I actually had to decide what shirts to buy, since I couldn't afford them all. That's when I wondered, "how many other women feel this way?". Should those of us with fuller chests have to feel outcasted by what's in stock at most chain stores? I already know the answer to this question as I'm sure you do. While we may not be able to fix this right away, I decided to share some BTC fashion and shopping tips with you.

1. "Suck it up and buy a good bra." I've been guilty of this myself but if you don't get through the nightmare that is bra shopping first, no shirt will look good on. My recommendation is the "Tailored Minimizer" from the Lilyette line by Maidenform. This bra comes in four colors; black, white, ivory and beige, and has a lace trim which distinguishes the bra from your grandmother's. The straps are adjustable and the back has three hooks instead of the usual, meager two. The bra retails for $34.

2. "Invest in good innerwear."
A great deal of the superfine cotton knits, most commonly used for t-shirts, are often see through and revealing. For BTC members, this is a great concern. When I purchase a shear blouse and a tank top to go with it, I often reuse that undershirt for cotton tops that are clingy or drape off the shoulder. Not only does this create some modesty, (the if you've got it flaunt it concept doesn't apply to every situation), but a tank top underneath can hide thick bra straps which can peek out of wider necklines. Innerwear is also good to have if you are looking to smooth out the overall look of the blouse. (Pictured: Pure Body Tank in silver from Gap. $14.95)

3. " Know your silhouettes."
There are many important things to consider when buying a shirt. Let's use the photo at left as an example. The neckline is open which gives your chest more room. The best neckline would typically be a v-neck but as long as a scoop neck is wide enough that will also work. Turtlenecks actually draw attention to your chest so stay away from those. Second, the sleeve length has to be right. The goal is to find a fuller sleeve that balances you out. This shirt has a kimono style sleeve with no armhole which means more breathing room for the girls. The shirt has some fullness towards the bottom so if it pulls up over your chest, there should still be some length to reach your hips. (Pictured: Seamed Jersey Top from Gap. $24.95)

4. "Choose the right print."
Proportion is an important factor when buying any apparel. Skinny jeans do not look the same on a slender frame as they do on a curvaceous frame. This is due to proportion. If you have a fuller chest you want to try and find a larger print that works with what you have and not against it. Look for prints that are less linear and more random so that you do not end up with a large stripe right across your boobs. (Pictured: Printed Raw Edge Shirt from Gap. $ 52.99)

5."Choose the right fabric."
This surplice top is a great silhouette for a fuller chest but more importantly it is a silk-cotton blend. When looking for a shirt, be sure to check the fabric content if you are not sure just by feeling "the hand" of the fabric. The fabric should be thick enough to drape nicely and not cling to your girls. While looking for structure, also look for stretch since you want to be comfortable. A blend can do the job nicely. Cotton blends are breathable but often lightweight. However, when paired with the right fabric they can look more tailored. If a shirt has spandex, make sure the percentage is low, since a high spandex content will cling and stretch, rather than drape. (Pictured: Printed Wrap Top from Gap. $49.95)

So, all in all I had a great shopping day at the Gap. I found a plethora of fabulous shirts that fit my frame and were modest but not too matronly. I only hope as I continue to shop the market, that more stores follow suit and fill the gap. Below are a few more suggestions.

Clockwise from top:
Rule 3 : v-neck, kimono sleeve
Rule 3+5: raglan, bell sleeve, poly/cotton/rayon blend
Rule 3+4: kimono sleeve, print
Rule 3+5: surplice neckline, print

Fall Fashion Week Favorites: Cushnie Et Ochs

2011-09-21T12:01:00.000-04:00

As I was perusing Style.com to pretend I was front and center at Fashion Week, I was blown away by the Cushnie Et Ochs Spring 2012 collection. As we watch this label evolve, I feel a real respect for the designers, Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs, who have taken their vision and somehow, in a few short years, turned it into line of apparel we all want to buy.

Cushnie and Ochs met while studying at Parsons, where one of the two received the Parsons Designer of the Year Award and the other was runner up. They do not specify who the actual winner was and why would they? The important thing is their line is taking off. Before graduating in 2007, Cushnie, who is from London, interned for Donna Karan, Proenza Schouler and Oscar De la Renta. American born Ochs interned for Marc Jacobs, Isaac Mizrahi, and Chado Ralph Rucci. As we look at the collections from previous years, we can see the inspiration they gathered from their past experiences and how they have woven it into Cushnie Et Ochs.

Above: Cushnie and Ochs in looks from their debut, Spring 09 collection.

What's interesting about this design duo is the way their very different ideas come together in a cohesive manner. It's very Proenza Schouler. Cushnie and Ochs mix draping with tailoring, fashion forward with sellable and industrial with feminine. What ceases to change is their body-conscious, fresh and futuristic looks, intended for a strong woman with the personal style of someone like Jane Jetson.

(all photos except first two: Marcio Madeira/ style.com)

I love this look from their Spring 11' ready-to-wear collection. The dress seems like a fabulous ball gown that has been through hell and back, worn by a young woman who exudes an edgy elegance. In Spring 11', Cushnie and Ochs take on delicate fabrics and mix them with suitings and bottom weight fabrics. What results are semi-traditional silhouettes, fabricated playfully, creating a look that says I want to look the part without looking like everyone else. They also never forget to have a little black dress in every collection, one that manages to have a little something different about it and a variety of little white dresses just to stay on top of the game.

(Resort 12') (Spring 12')

2012 was a big year for Cushnie Et Ochs. Improvement is apparent in all areas of their line. They not only have breathtaking lookbook worthy styles in Resort 12' but have upgraded their signature minimalist use of color to really vibe with the specific silhouette. Despite, only one pair of pants being offered, the pieces all have strength as standalone work but as a collection make great sense together. The draped dresses and square shouldered jackets and shirts are presented with more confidence than ever before. While we do not see the contrasting and highly textured fabrics of the past, Cushie and Ochs chose an exquisite eyelet fabric that adds a nice pop to the more predictable silks and jersey knits.

It is always inspiring to see young designers making it in the fashion industry. I believe we should always pay special attention to the up and comers if we want a leg up on what's to come. Once a designer becomes a brand, that creative energy is not always present. I look forward to seeing what Cushnie Et Ochs has planned for next season!

(Resort 12')

Kmart's Smart Budget Brand: Route 66

2011-08-30T21:25:00.000-04:00

While I would normally never post a picture of myself in Israel, as an example of what to wear, (I opted for the comfy, low-maintenance look, trying to avoid looking too touristy), I wanted to show a tank top I fell in love with and paid $8.99 for. I grabbed this shirt while doing a last minute shop before my trip, at Kmart in the Gallery Mall. $8.99 was the sale price but I was willing to pay the original price of $16.99. What I liked most, besides the print, was the center back zipper that didn't bunch up or curl. The added bonus is the tank looks great with skinny jeans and sandals for a casual night out.

Today on my way home from class I really had to pee. I stopped off in the Gallery Mall in between busses. The food court bathroom was closed so I ran to the Kmart restroom, conveniently located in the women's apparel section. As I was leaving the store, I found myself walking through racks of affordable clothing that I (GASP) liked. This is how I found Route 66, the brand responsible for my favorite tank. Pardon the long story but I feel it was fate. I can't remember the last time I liked a budget brand.

Route 66 was created by Kmart which is owned by the Sears Holding Company. This is the name Kmart took when it bought out Sears. Logically, you can also find Route 66 at Sears.

Some of my picks from the fall collection:

Plaid Racerback Tank Top

Purple

$16.99, Online $12.74

Knit Open Cardigan

Egret

$19.99, Online $14.99

Knit Snap Front Hoodie

Khaki

$34.99, Online $26.24

Henley Style Tunic

Claret Red

$21.99, Online $16.49

3/4 Sleeve Stripe Shirt

Egret, Astor

$16.99, Online $12.74

Kmart.com also has a great selection of highly discounted summer items from Route 66.

Maxi Dress

Yellow stripe

$24.99, Online $5.99!!!

I chose not to suggest any bottoms because I felt the brand had not resolved this category in terms of aesthetics yet. Basically, the pants offered either looked too cheap or mom-jean-ish. (Even the word looks tacky!) Despite this, Kmart has another brand I came upon, definitely worth checking out. Attention is another budget brand by Kmart with a more mature, business casual look. While I would stay away from some of the polyester blend tops, I was a big fan of this style:

Floral Print Tunic Top

Cranberry

$24.99

Who would have thought almost peeing in your pants would be so enlightening!

MY DIY WEDDING

2011-08-28T16:09:00.002-04:00

If you can get through planning a wedding, marriage really is a $5 piece of cake.

I haven't really been living the most conventional life lately and so it shouldn't have surprised me to have a less conventional, kind of spontaneous proposal, from my boyfriend. Marriage had seemed like a distant moment to fantasize about, not a current situation to fret over. I barely had the time to write posts for my blog, so I thought, "how the hell am I going to plan a wedding!?!"

My lovely family seemed slightly perturbed at the thought of us eloping but we were on a very tight budget. Then it occurred to me, that I had no idea how to get married in another country nor could we afford tickets to anywhere romantic and Parisian. With Vegas not really our style, I didn't think we had any option other than city hall. In Philadelphia, this means an old building with dim hallways that reek of urine.
(invite: Allison Ardire, allisonardire.blogspot.com)

When my cousin, Bonnie, the party planner of the family, decided to throw us an engagement party I was elated. I realized this might be the celebration part of our wedding, the rest could take place at "Pee Pee Hall." In the midst of summer classes and a ten day trip to Israel, I tried to stay on top of my party responsibilities while still having some form of a social life and babysitting to save up cash. My extra babysitting cash used to provide me with a new outfit or some music but now it was essential for paying for a dress or a rental car.

While my boyfriend and I were going through this stressful time together, it really made me want to marry him. And although we had been engaged for nine months and known each other for almost three years, I felt most assured about our relationship during this hectic time . After a week of consideration, I called my cousin to announce our decision to get married at our engagement party. Luckily, she was excited. Now, the clincher, it was going to be a surprise wedding. Always a closeted perfectionist, I couldn't afford to inform people it was a wedding and then find out it wasn't legal or we exhausted our funds, among other possible catastrophes. The upside was no one would have expectations we would have to meet. Our wedding could really be about us, because, well nobody knew we were having one.

Regardless if the wedding had been a surprise or not, we learned to think outside the box and abandon many of the consumerist traditions. When we told someone about our surprise, it was to include them in our planning and give them a special role, opting, in many instances, for that task to be the gift, rather than having to come up with the money on the spot. Part of our decision was based on having a friend, who was ordained and experienced. If you would like a friend to marry you, all they have to do is go to one of the Universal Life Church websites and pay a small fee. It really is legal and so much cooler to have someone you know perform your ceremony.

(Above: David Wilson marrying us)
Having a surprise wedding, means no bridesmaid dresses or formal tuxes. My sister acted as a bridesmaid and our friend Al, a best man. I never could understand the matchy matchy, dress thing and the lack of creativity most people have when it comes to their bridal party. Letting certain family and friends in on the surprise meant a shaky but charming home video of the ceremony and very professional photos, courtesy of our friend, Robert Carter. http://rcarterphoto.com/

Even if you don't know a photographer, booking a student with a strong portfolio, will probably result in cheaper prices and a more creative approach. This can apply to the dress, the music, general party planning and more. The chuppah was handcrafted out of bamboo by my cousin, Scott Bredes. After the surprise ceremony, we played Hava Nagilah from an iPod deck and danced.

Now, the fun part... The clothes and accessories. The cost of outfitting yourself on a day like this can be extremely intimidating. I went to the King of Prussia mall with my friend, Eleanor for a dress shopping marathon. It was during the twilight hours, right before the mall closed, that we found the best options, at Bloomingdales. I finally settled on something with not a moment to spare.

Dress: Chequer
Price: $188
Alterations: $45
Gloria's Dressmaking
258 S. 10th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19107

I chose to wear my mother's veil. Despite the difference in style and fabrication, there was something very spiritual about wearing it. I realized this was a part of the ceremony where tradition takes precedence over aesthetics.

When thinking about what kind of shoe would be best, I had to keep in mind that I would be walking on grass. Zappos.com came to the rescue yet again, with a perfect and affordable shoe. I paid $61.45 for these Vince Camuto, "Edon Barley" wedges. The best part, they came in a 5 1/2!

To complete my simple wedding outfit I chose vintage, clip ons from a friend's antique shop. They even matched the invitation. A designer's dream come true. I didn't really need a handbag but had a beaded vintage purse in case. I had my hair done at a nearby Aveda salon, asking for a vintage inspired up-do. I like to work with what I have and stayed away from straightening and fake curls. I wanted to look like myself at my wedding, not like I was wearing a costume. My friend, Jamie did my make-up.

Arame Salon & Spa
7 Trader's Cove
Port Jefferson, New York

After all the mishegas, and a champagne toast, it was time to sit under the tent and eat together. For an intimate outdoor wedding, making food on the grill is ideal . Having guests bring sides or alcohol is also much appreciated. This food was made with love by my cousin, Bonnie Bredes.

Rob Edwards brought a half keg and assorted bottles from the local, Blue Point Brewery.

The cake was definitely a concern for our tight budget until my aunt pitched in and offered $100. For $110 we had a delicious cake with matching cupcakes in a variety of flavors. The cupcake stand rental fee was outrageous so Bonnie found a stand at another store. (Stand included in price.) My cousin Amy, made chocolate covered strawberries as a nice addition to dessert.

When I first decided to write about my wedding, I realized I was lucky because I had so much help. I wanted to share my story not because I wanted to brag about how lucky we are but to remind others to let go of the stress and pressure of trying to have a "perfect day" and instead aspire to have a meaningful day.

Reza and I spent a night at a bed and breakfast and returned home to Philadelphia. Weddings are exhausting. Honeymoons are not relaxing if you are already exhausted when you begin yours. We will have ours when the time is right... no surprises.

Beaver Dam Creek House: Five Pleasant Avenue Westhampton, NY 11977

Modern Fashion

2011-06-21T16:18:00.001-04:00

My friend Jessica asked me if I would write something about the correlation between fashion and music. I had been contemplating what to write for days, when I came upon this article featured in W magazine for the July 2011 issue: "Behind the Muses". Eight different designers are paired with musicians based on current collaborations and mutual admiration. Max Vadukul photographs the pairs.

This fabulous photograph depicts one of my favorite new artists, Esperanza Spalding and the creative director of Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa. What I love about Spalding is her jazz background, her ability to play several instruments and sing well and her class and sophistication. My feelings about Costa are no different. His minimalist silhouettes and color palettes are exceptional. I think this is an excellent pairing. I have been listening to jazz music for 12 years, I discovered mod fashion in college. It was then I realized the two are very interrelated.

In the following excerpt from Wikipedia, we learn about the link between "modern jazz" and "mods".

The term mod derives from modernist, which was a term used in the 1950s to describe modern jazz musicians and fans. This usage contrasted with the term trad, which described traditional jazz players and fans. The 1959 novel Absolute Beginners by Colin MacInnes describes as a modernist, a young modern jazz fan who dresses in sharp modern Italian clothes. Absolute Beginners may be one of the earliest written examples of the term modernist being used to describe young British style-conscious modern jazz fans. The word modernist in this sense should not be confused with the wider use of the term modernism in the context of literature, art, design and architecture.

Basically, what I am saying is Costa's simpler aesthetic pairs nicely with Spalding's music. If you haven't listened to it yet, get on the bandwagon here: http://www.esperanzaspalding.com/cms/.

Music and fashion make perfect sense together. Think of punk, alternative, metal, disco, classic rock, reggae, funk, etc. The musicians create trends we all follow. Most of us know what these genres looked like but what about today? I thought it might be interesting to look at our culture now.

Indie Rock:

From top: The Kills, New Young Pony Club and The Strokes

After looking through the Resort 2012 shows online and current Italian fashion, I realize the most fashion forward are moving away from this look. My question is, "where is fashion headed?" Is there a particular icon or group that is going to influence style, or is fashion's interest in music fading away?

We are what we eat...

2011-06-15T15:17:00.001-04:00

I was eating dinner last night, thinking about my neglected blog, when I realized how much I've come to love cooking. The ingredients look relatively uninteresting until you mix them together, add heat, etc. It reminded me of design. The process being the main part, the outcome often enjoyed for only a moment. Then we become engrossed in the next project. In this case, I inhaled my food, so I enjoyed my creation for about 15 minutes. I guess I could have photographed my scrambled eggs and dandelion greens to show everyone what I made. I follow a food blog where people post their homemade meals and could have posted my meal there. But, I write about fashion so, this got me thinking, "how can I apply this to what I do?"

My dinner looked something like this...

While what I was eating was definitely tasty, it also possessed an aesthetic quality that made it more enjoyable to eat. If a garment is beautifully constructed and aesthetically pleasing, it is more enjoyable to the wearer. I searched to find looks that reminded me of my dinner; made with care, balanced, seasonal, colorful and delicious. Enjoy.
(all images from style.com)

From left: Anna Sui, Carlos Miele, Jason Wu (Resort 2012)

From left: Naeem Khan, Peter Som, Thakoon (Resort 2012)

Recipe for Dandelion Greens

Ingredients:
1LB of Dandelion Greens
Salt
1/4 Cup of Water
Cooking Oil
1/2 Chopped Onion
1 clove of Garlic, minced
1 tablespoon of Balsamic Vinaigrette
a pinch of Garlic Powder

Cut the roots off the greens
Cut the greens into 2 inch pieces
Pour water and salt into pan and cook greens until tender

Put oil into separate pan
Add garlic and onions
Add balsamic vinaigrette, salt and garlic powder
Cook until onion is translucent

Remove pan from heat and add greens and stir

Eat

"Who cares about Brooklyn?"

2011-01-22T15:16:00.082-05:00

Brooklyn. When I think of Brooklyn, I think of this place. The El Greco Diner, located on 1821 Emmons Avenue in Sheepshead Bay. I would always order fried chicken in a basket with fries. We didn't go there because the food was good or because the service was good or for the ambiance or even for the free butter cookies you could take from a dish on your way out the door. We went there because it was near my grandmother's house. Brooklyn was never considered trendy or convenient to my family. This was our history.

(pic source: bridgeandtunnelclub.com)

My great-grandparents all emigrated to Brooklyn before 1920. They lived among other Jewish people. My great-grandfather owned a dairy business so he could support his eight children. All of my grandparents were born in Brooklyn. My grandmother volunteered for B'nai B'rith, a Jewish organization. She moved to Brighton Beach with my grandfather in the 1960's and would swim in the ocean every morning. My grandfather would take me to Coney Island and we would ride the carousel and eat Nathan's. My parents were born in Brooklyn. They met through their friends who owned a vacuum repair shop. What a nice story but "who cares"? Most of Coney Island has been torn down to make way for condos and other bullshit like more condos.

This was where my grandmother's pool club used to be. The condos surrounding the pool were built in the 90's and they took over the pool. This meant Frances' membership was no longer active. Well, no longer active unless she wanted to pay the increased membership fee. I never understood why I liked going to Brighton Beach so much. I couldn't explain it to anyone. I figured I just liked being around my family and going to the beach and watching cable television on the last console t.v. in America. As I got older I realized that I enjoyed my time there so much because it was a special place. It was cultured and vibrant. The food was good, (except at the diner), the people were nice and despite the plethora of condoms and beer bottles, the beach was a happening place, filled with diversity. The boardwalk gave everyone a place to socialize, exercise and simply relax. But who cares about all this? Why should it matter? I didn't know what gentrification meant until I moved to Philadelphia and learned about it by reading the local newspaper. In 2008, when I heard that Astroland Amusement Park was closing due to development, I had my first taste of what it must feel like to be pushed out of your own neighborhood. But "who cares" about an amusement park from the 1960's? There are hundreds of amusement parks in New York City where parents can bring their children and tourists can have an experience that gives them a sense real Brooklyn, right?

This picture is from a rally that took place to protest the closing of the park. Owner Carol Hill Albert and developer Thor Equities who purchased the park in 2006, were unable to come to an agreement due to lease renewal issues. To learn more about this issue check out nydailynews.com for an article entitled, "Coney Island's Astroland owner calls it quits; park closing Sunday forever" by Jotham Sederstrom.

pic source: nydailynews.com)

I was in Brooklyn last weekend. I went there to work and to do some sightseeing with my partner in kvetch, Reza. Reza is a painter and he wanted to check out the art galleries in Williamsburg. We met up with his friend and fellow painter Steve Lewis. Steve gave us the lowdown on the neighborhood. Over the last fifteen years or so, a community that was modestly priced and a cultural mecca for artists and musicians, became a corporate, overpriced community with condos. Local businesses shut down and all the creative people had to close up shop and move elsewhere.

Steve pointed out the new Duane Reade on Bedford Avenue; directly across from a Kings Pharmacy. Kings Pharmacy has been serving Brooklyn and Manhattan for over seventy years. On their website you can read about all the services they specialize in, including, HIV & AIDS and hepatitis treatment. What does the new Duane Reade provide the good people of Williamsburg... beer on tap! That's right, you can even purchase a growler at this Duane Reade. I don't know about you but I buy my beer from a bar. In an article by Michelle Castillo for Time Newsfeed, we learn; "Residents vehemently opposed the chain from entering their neighborhood because they feared that it would dispose a local pharmacy, New York Times reported. So Duane Reade decided to cozy up to the naysayers by offering them something that they knew a hipster couldn't say no to: beer on tap." Maybe the Duane Reade can also put the bars out of business.

Yes, the "H" word made it into my article. I used to use this word to describe a group of people who were interested in independent labels regarding music and clothing. I think it meant something once, kind of like punk did. I believe the article by Castillo was referring to the young newcomers moving into newly gentrified areas. These people are a walking irony, copying an anti-trend and therefore being trendy. As a fashion enthusiast, my first reaction was frustration. Every generation is known for something. Our generation will be known for COPYING the style of the pre-apple gadget, low income person, involved in the arts and politics, struggling to make it but all the while CREATING beautiful work. The hipster style is so prevalent in our youth culture that it is referenced in Vogue Magazine. We have Urban Outfitters to thank for the attire. UO, a nasty corporation that exploits its employees and manufactures poorly made garbage.

So, all things aside, how did an article about Brooklyn turn into a rant about hipsters? Well, I think I finally figured out why all of this negative gentrification is taking place. Let's look at our generation. My fifteen year old cousin asked me to write about the styles of 2010. Sure, I can do that. We don't have any style. We don't have any politics, we don't understand struggle. We have the internet, which mean easy access to information, yet know nothing about current events. We don't read books, we don't have chores, we shop and buy things constantly. The only young people who obtain an excellent education have the privilege of attending private school and learn about the real world in college by reading the New York Times, not from their parents. My cousin who had my fifteen year old cousin (confusing, sorry) told me she sees her students who are receiving free lunch playing on their blackberry while they eat. The priorities of kids are screwed up because their parents are both forced to work and can only compensate for their absence by buying their children iPhones and who can blame them; they're tired. Our government created the hipster mentality by refusing to acknowledge that capitalism just does not work. We have some of the worst rights for pregnant women and new mothers in the whole world. We even start wars for money. So what can we do? I write but everyone can do something. They can use their privileges and education to contribute to society. They can change their personal goals to be less egocentric and stop using money and stuff as a way to justify success. "Well, don't worry too much about this article. I mean who has time to read all this shit anyway when there are Facebook comments to unlike and tweets to um, tweet?"

So, "who cares" about their community? I do. While I think the problem lies in a lack of rent control to protect people and businesses from losing their homes and stores, I think there are more things we can do. We can support local business, recycle and keep our block clean, volunteer; (I won't judge you if you don't because I currently don't.) and please, please, please vote, and not just in the presidential election. It starts from the bottom.

On a lighter side, these were some of the places Reza and I enjoyed while in Brooklyn....

Check out this wonderful art gallery!

http://www.art101brooklyn.com/

And this gallery!

http://www.sideshowgallery.com/

Eat here if you are in Park Slope!

http://www.miriamrestaurant.com/ & http://www.cafeshane.com/

And stop here for handmade gifts, snacks and a

clean bathroom!

70 N. 7th between Wythe and Kent

http://artistsandfleas.com/

This article is for my grandmother, Frances Gewirtz. She repped Brooklyn hard.

The Conscious Consumer

2011-01-03T12:36:00.046-05:00

What would it take to change the way Americans see shopping?

As an avid shopper for many years, I have created every fashion faux pas known to man. I have shopped impulsively, shopped for something specific, shopped for something specific and ended up with something else, done a large shop at a mall or outlet, gone bargain shopping to find anything for a good price, shopped for someone else, bought things just because they were on sale, gotten so attached to something I bought it even though it doesn't fit and done the whole thrift store thing. Now that I'm older and a little bit wiser, I'm sick of shopping. It's hurting my paycheck, it's stressful. I find the salespeople insincere and the other shoppers pushy. No, I DON'T want to open a credit card, thank you and no I do not want to buy two and get one free.

This is all WRONG, very wrong. Not only is the nation going through a recession, we are living on a very polluted planet. Starting as far back as textile production, we are not engaging in processes that respect our environment. Cotton,

one of the most commonly used fabrics, requires a ton of pesticides in it's growing process. This is how "organic cotton" came to be. Pesticides pollute our water and hurt surrounding farms, which in turn hurts you and me. Currently, there is no solution to this problem. That is because a lot of the time we are lied to. That's right. That cutesy label that reads "99.9% organic cotton" is often a blatant lie. Genetically modified organisms doesn't just apply to food. It applies to fabrics as well. Not only does organic cotton make up less than 1% of the total cotton production in the United States, it is often conventional or simply GMO fibers. Another way of looking at it, bamboo is a natural material but when you extract cellulose from bamboo and modify it, it can become RAYON.

(pic source: 100percentcotton.com)

Now, if this wasn't bad enough, we live in a "throw away" society. Ever buy a $10 pair of leggings? Ever brag to your friend, "this whole outfit cost me $40?". Not good. The average person doesn't own a sewing machine or even have the interest to sit down a mend a pair of ripped pants. The average person also feels excited by a cheap find. We need to start educating

ourselves about art and design. That $10 pair of leggings could not be more distinctly different from a painting made over time by a trained artist and sold in a gallery to another person. That is because the creator had a say in what was being made. They used their expertise to make something beautiful for someone else. They did not let the patron tell them what to paint and stick it on a wall, determining price exclusively for profit. (There are always exceptions to the rule but you get the idea.) That is what mass production has done to fashion. It is all about what the consumer will buy.

If you knew what a garment was doing to the environment when you bought it, you might

second guess the "bargain" you hoped you were getting. Water pollution from pesticides is just one example of a harmful side effect of buying clothing. Air pollution from the transport of the garments is also very detrimental. Imagine we all purchased domestically produced garments. It is true this might hurt the economy of another country involved, however, should we set up our own country to fail by making it almost impossible to make affordable clothing over here? Can we create an international standard for factories that will enable the consumer to buy a certified product?

(pic source: fibre2fashion.com)

Contrary to what I believed, much of the machinery used to produce wovens and knits was not exclusively made in Asia for the Asian textile industry. According to Sara Beth Kane, a research technologist at the Laboratory for Engineered Human Protection at Philadelphia University, machines used in the production of textiles and garments could be found in mills and factories in the southern US. These mills sold the machinery to Asia and then shut down, moving the technology overseas. Next, we lowered the tariffs on imports from Asia, making it even easier for countries like China to monopolize the industry. While you can still buy couture garments made in Italy and the US, mostly everything in a person's closet is made in China or India, or in a third world country. According to Kane, " these factories are under pressure to provide speed, quantity and price by companies like Walmart". "The labor that garment production involves is not that difficult to learn. We could easily train Americans to work in manufacturing, which would create jobs and prevent worker abuse abroad."

I don't need to interview an expert to know there is a huge problem. Just go overseas to Italy where fashion was born. Italians love fashion. They allow the designers to make choices for them which supports the industry. In the US we could care less. We mock the idea of owning anything expensive. We complain about mark ups, stating we are being taken advantage of unless it costs X amount of dollars to buy something. Honestly, the cheaper something is at retail value, the more you are being taken advantage of. A higher price point is expected to produce a higher quality garment. While I find "The North Face" brand to be slightly excessive for everyday wear I bought a lightweight jacket and was promised that if anything ever went wrong with it, I could bring it back for a new jacket. That is how we should treat our wardrobe, like it is meant to last a lifetime. (pic source: refinery29.com)

Instead of allowing other countries to produce cheap knockoffs and treat their workers like robots, we should be making a conscious effort to buy things as we need them and to wear them as long as we can. You can compute the sensibility of a garment by dividing the cost by how many times you will wear it. How much are you paying per wear? It's that simple. Are you fretting about things in your closet you no longer need? Donate them to a charity, bring them to a consignment shop and ask for store credit. Use the money to buy something already worn. Have a clothing swap with your friends but don't simply throw them out. Many fabrics do not break down in a landfill, for example polyester. The last thing we want our throw away clothing to do is sit in a land fill.

Giving Up On the Hamptons

2010-08-19T21:57:00.090-04:00

I intended to write a post that described the overall feel of the Hamptons. I was going to talk about the vibe, what people were wearing and what the shopping was like. Unfortunately I didn't see anything that inspired me with the exception of the Sigerson Morrison Barn Sale which I mistook for some kind of local jam and pie thing but was actually a bunch of Japs, drinking champagne under a white tent, buying discounted, high end shoes. This "barn sale" experience sums up the consumerist and capitalist attitude that is the Hamptons.

My first, real inspiration, came from reading Hamptons magazine, Volume 32, Issue 8. I picked up a free copy at a local market where you could have a high end deli sandwich and even order from a catering menu. I was immediately blown away by the cover of Kelly Rutherford, bony and pale in an ice blue Fendi dress, looking like she was judging me with one hand on her hip. It would have completely bored me if not for the fact that she was wearing a gown and gaudy jewelry on the beach during the daytime.

I found a coffee shop and opted to put my current book down to rifle through this heap of advertising and drink an iced mocha. (I tried to order the most high maintenance drink possible to keep with the spirit of the Hamptons only to find out that the most fussy drink can only be ordered by the most fussy customer... a quad something which had to be explained to the newly trained cashier, by the manager, since the customer was too important to explicate.) Thinking I was sitting at a local shop, I took my magazine out to the porch to people watch and read. I later found out that the "local shop" was in fact Jack's, a popular coffee spot in Manhattan with two other locations and plans for expansion. I was able to read about Jack's on New York Magazine's website, (nymag.com) and look through themed merchandise on Jack's website (jacksstirbrew.com) including a $55 sweatshirt and vintage military jacket for $79.95. No thanks.

Back to Kelly Rutherford...

the matriarch of Gossip Girl, which is a popular show on the CW network. I've never seen the show but a description on the CW website reads, "High society and low blows are back as Gossip Girl, a one hour drama

about the scandalous lives of Manhattan's elite..." that's all you need to know. Rutherford, a divorced, upper east side mom, with two children, Helena and Hermes, is a symbol of a woman with a consumerist lifestyle. She name drops restaurants and places she takes her kids. She admits her son is named for the French brand of luxury goods and not the Greek messenger of the Gods. The god, Hermes among other things was the god of commerce. He led those who died to the underworld by ferry. Taking a ferry to the underworld... sound familiar?

One thing I did make note of while staying in Amagansett, was the real estate activity. There were mini mansions being built left and right and for sale signs on many new properties. In "Hamptons", Volume 32, Issue 8, you can gain some real estate insight in "Broker Beat". This recurring article by Jane Kellogg is more of an interview with two prominent brokers, Matthew Breitenbach and Lori Barbaria. Let's begin with Breitenbach's blatant honesty about being a young agent and how this enables him to relate to other young, successful people who are in the finance world and who are driving the market in the Hamptons. Doesn't it make you sad to think that this beach town with already one of the ten most expensive zip codes, is currently only becoming more and more exclusive? Where is the diversity that New Yorkers are so accustomed to? What about older people who want to retire in the Hamptons? What about anybody else? The Hamptons is practically one big shopping mall. A shopping mall that Lori Barbaria describes as "country lifestyle... with fresh organic farm foods, paddleboarding, biking, yoga, yard sales, exploring and (of course) fantastic real estate". She also explains during her interview that she consults psychics to help her make sales and that if you maintain a sincere way of living, you too can be successful. I guess all the maids, cooks, chauffeurs and nannies that work on Long Island are insincere.

"Hamptons" magazine, just like all magazines, is filled with advertisements. I found the ads as compelling as the articles. My favorite promotional page was entirely devoted to Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank. Dr. Frank also has an office on the Upper East Side. He deals mostly with cosmetic rejuvenation which, by reading between the lines, appears to be aging. Aging is a natural process which is widely respected in African countries and other nations unlike in America. For some reason, it is socially acceptable in this country, to pretend that you will never die. Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank can help you look the same age forever by using a fractional laser. Dr. Frank explains that this procedure rejuvenates skin kind of like "repaving a road". Delightful! When asked if the procedure is safe the doc beats around the bush and talks about minimal recovery time and then assures us he uses the "Rolls Royce of lasers". I guess if you're having half your face burnt off, you would like to have it done by a laser with rims.

Another great article, entitled "Prince Charming" by Amanda Weiner, interviews Sasson Basha a trust fund type of guy who works in his family's jewelry design business. He pretends he cares about jewelry design a little and then reveals he takes days off from work to surf, loves his Blackberry and IPod and is currently reading Bret Easton Ellis' new book, "Imperial Bedrooms". Anybody ever heard of "American Psycho"? One of Ellis' most popular books where he describes the gluttony that is the yuppie lifestyle and has the main character, a serial killer, off some of his financial district, yuppie peers. I wonder if Matthew Breitenbach would sell a house to Patrick Bateman.

Let's end with something from "End Notes", a part of "Hamptons" magazine that gossips and dishes. The first article called "Hedge Fun" is written by Michael Braverman. It mentions the popularity of high privet hedges in the Hamptons as a way of fencing a property. While Braverman writes with a reasonably objective viewpoint, I couldn't help but quote, "A quiet street lined with high privet hedges, excluding outsiders and enclosing those who belong, is an oft-evoked (and generally accurate) representation of the Hamptons.".

Who really belongs in the Underworld? I wish we could ask Hermes.

Would Lee Alexander McQueen eat a McQ sandwich?

2010-07-27T22:48:00.083-04:00

On February 11th, 2010, Lee Alexander McQueen took his own life. His untimely death devastated the fashion industry and left a huge gaping hole where creativity once was. He was a recipient of numerous awards including "British Designer of the Year" which he won four times between 1996 and 2003 and the CFDA's "International Designer of the Year" in 2003. When Gucci Group (which owns 51%) and Jonathan Akeroyd, CEO of "Alexander McQueen", sat down to choose the new creative director of the brand they unanimously chose Sarah Burton.

Burton is a graduate of Central St. Martins, McQueen's alma

mater. She started working for him in 1996 as an intern and was invited to stay with the company. Eventually she became the head designer for the more commercial line, "McQ" and directed McQueen's final collection, which was about 80% finished when he took his own life. As newly appointed creative director, Burton has designed the Resort 2011 womens and menswear collections respectively.

Can Sarah Burton fill McQueen's shoes? Can anyone replace the designer who starts their own line? Designers sell their name to investors all the time. Sometimes they remain creative director but not forever. Eventually someone else is appointed and the brand often morphs, sometimes changing a lot and other times remaining true to the original vision. When a designer relinquishes complete control of their company is their work still a collection of creative ideas or does it simply become a line of potentially profitable wares?

I fell in love with McQueen's work when I saw his fall 2009 womenswear collection. His designs were truly thought provoking and even created conflict, with some people calling the collection "misogynistic", "meaningless" and "ugly". He challenged the expectations we have of models on the runway, played with proportion and scale and yet had a creative concept that was still beautifully constructed. As I looked through his other work in the safety of my cubicle at my internship, I realized how lucky I was to find this person who could express his unique perspective through garment production. This is why fashion is great. Occasionally it means something to someone.

McQueen is also credited with creating noteworthy trends. In "Six ways Alexander McQueen changed fashion", Rajini Vaidyanathan, writing for BBC News, lists low rise pants or "bumsters" as McQueen called them, skull prints, tailoring, theatrical runway shows, eccentric models like the Paralympian, Aimee Mullins and unique silhouettes as the most influential. Since "bumsters" were featured as early as 1996, it wouldn't surprise me if McQueen really had something to do with the hip-hugging style we've all come to hate despite its popularity. A lot of people who don't study fashion don't realize that everything you're wearing has an origin. It began somewhere. When we realize what McQueen has contributed to the last 20 years of fashion, we can admit designers like that don't come along every day.

"I believe in that one on one sell. I don't really believe in flooding the market with loads of goods that don't mean much... you lose your identity." -Lee Alexander McQueen

Sounds to me like the aforementioned quote is spoken by a person who loves quality. A person who french presses his coffee, not a person who eats McDonald's. While I respect Sarah Burton's ability to carry on, to me, the label is no longer an artistic development, simply a name we can sell to others. Along with the "Alexander McQueen" perfume, body lotion and handbags, which can be found at Saks, Neiman Marcus, etc., I feel the rest of the clothing will be Sarah Burton's happy meal version as a commercial designer. Jonathan Akeroyd, chief executive of the brand has stated in regards to McQueen's death, "...we are ready to enter a new phase in the brand's history." Is Akeroyd looking to supersize "Alexander McQueen"?

What is fashion really about... making clothes or making money? Lee Alexander McQueen's artistic genius or Sarah Burton's more marketable "McQ" viewpoint with fries?

Happy Belated July 4th

2010-07-26T21:52:00.003-04:00

Where's Waldo?

Should Obama socialize the American internship?

2010-07-21T12:24:00.040-04:00

The New York Times ran an article on July 2nd, written by Hilary Stout, about the "coveted and elusive summer internship". The article really got me.

I was fortunate enough to land an internship for A Pea in the Pod, a maternity wear line owned by Destination Maternity Corporation in 2009. I was laid off five months later. I received the typical email from HR, with some kind of vague message. I was given the run around for days because the HR employee was ironically pregnant at the time, and then I was given the axe. Lucky for me, I could receive unemployment; less than $300 a week. As I sat in my studio apartment watching basic cable and eating snacks I bought with my food stamp card, I asked myself, why? Why would a company lay off a $10 an hour employee with a college degree who was turning out good work? One word, Obama. I truly had no idea until I came upon this article that the man I voted for, was the reason I was watching Maury Povich in my tiny ass apartment. Legislation that he had passed actually took away many internship opportunities.

The U.S. Department of Labor Wage and Hour Division recently addressed the concerns many have about the abuse of interns. Interns often complete tasks that regular employees are responsible for but are not compensated appropriately. Many apply for internships only to find they aren't really learning, simply filling up their resumes. Other students cannot afford to work for free and are less likely to land a job because they had to forego the internship experience.

The Labor Wage and Hour Division wants to even the playing field and make sure everyone is being treated fairly. They made more restrictions and clearer guidelines on what an internship is and when it is legal to hire someone for an unpaid position. According to the department's website, www.dol.gov, "the more an internship is structured around a classroom or academic experience as opposed to the employer's actual operations, the more likely the internship will be reviewed as an extension of the individual's educational experience...". The rest of the paragraph goes on to explain if the work an intern does is directly helping the company make a profit, they are to receive minimum wage and overtime pay.

I received $10 an hour at my design internship. I worked a 40 hour week with the exception of unpaid holidays off and made a barely okay living. What I didn't consider was the possibility I could get stuck in this position, with no contract and end up being a full time employee with no benefits indefinitely. This includes no raise. I was eager for the learning experience, hoping it would lead to a promotion and was grateful for the job in these tough times.

The Department of Labor Wage and Hour Division website states, "an internship should be for a fixed duration and not a trial period for an actual employee. I think we should insert: Amanda loses job, here. I often worked unsupervised for hours at a time and filled in for design assistants when they were on vacation. I couldn't handle their entire workload but I handled a lot of it and had other designers sign off on important decisions. This is also considered in the new rules. If an intern is not given a certain amount of supervision and the educational needs of the intern are not consistently addressed, then it is the company's responsibility to compensate.

I'm sure Obama meant well, although his efforts could have been spent on gay rights, for example, but we still have a problem. These new laws force the standard internship model into two different distinct categories; the unpaid, completely educational experience, which came to mean at my job, doing an internship for school credit, or the other option: a kind of mini-employee that works independently and has a higher expected level of competency but only for a finite period of time. It seems like the paid option would of course be the most desirable, but I worry about the lack of attention this intern would receive. On the other hand, you may have a contrived version of a work experience, where you don't do a lot of hands on work, to prevent the company from having to compensate you.

What is the solution to this problem? Should Obama socialize the American internship, make a timeline for the job and have a very specific contract? Or, should students fight tooth and nail to secure one of these jobs and have a real taste of capitalism?

American Apparel: Vintage Porn

2010-07-15T10:23:00.041-04:00

Dov Charney started a wholesale t-shirt company in 1998. The idea was to manufacture a quality product, made in America. AA has been the go to brand for a lot of small companies that like the soft hand of the shirts and the socially conscious production methods. In 2007, the company was bought by an investment firm, Endeavor Acquisition Corp. This gave Charney the millions he needed to expand. He had the ability to improve upon fit, fabric quality, dying techniques, marketing, and reach other markets like children and maternity.

Fast forward...

Let's start with the clothing. Still doesn't fit you or me does it? It looks great hanging on a t-stand or folded neatly on a shelf but predominately looks best on waif like models and junior sized women and men. This is only reinforced when looking at some of current ads. Young women who work for American Apparel are often used in place of professional models. This could also be considered a step forward however look at the ad again if you need to. There is no intention of using marketing to make any kind of positive statement towards real women with real bodies. These women represent Charney's muse; too young and underdeveloped. Dov Charney has not only been involved in five sexual harassment lawsuits, some involving AA employees, but is known to collect vintage porn. He collects vintage porn and now he manufactures it. I lack any other words to describe his vision. I think vintage porn just about sums it up.

I cannot confirm or deny if the quality of the ongoing styles have actually improved because I cannot wear them, but I will remark on the completely new influence of prep. Prep? Is there a term for preppy pornography? I guess Charney was influenced by the blonde, letter jacket wearing, college dropout, who poses for Playboy. That could be considered vintage too, right? AA fans can now buy styles like the "Hampton shorts" and the "Kennedy Shorts". For those of you who have better things to do than visit the online store, I did it for you. The "Hampton Shorts", are lightweight, seersucker, pleated shorts with a back zipper closure. Back zipper closure??? This just gets better and better. American Apparel has been able to objectify women and men whether in disco inspired spandex or well, with butt zippers. There is no regard for a target consumer, rather an obsession with remaining exclusive; excluding curvy figures, small incomes and people who do not shop in excess to stay trendy. When a company goes corporate, we usually don't expect much. When a company that began small and supported domestic production with fair labor wages goes corporate, we should be able to expect something. I'm disappointed. This isn't fashion. It's nihilism.

Philadelphia Hates Fashion...

2010-07-03T16:44:00.004-04:00

July 4th. The anniversary of the publication of the declaration of independence from Great Britain in 1776. We celebrate the American tradition of political freedom. I don't know about you but I am going to celebrate in Philadelphia where I currently live. I will eat sketchy meat products, drink beer and watch entertainment I didn't pay to see. As for my values I will definitely make an attempt at a summer outfit which I deem appropriate for the occasion however I cannot speak on behalf of the rest of Philadelphia. Let's talk about the July 4th holiday: what will you be doing, drinking and what will you be wearing? Where should we draw the line with our "holiday outfits"? I predict, as I watch The Goo Goo Dolls perform at the Art Museum steps, I will see my share of skin. Patriotic, proud and ready to prove to the rest of the world; Philadelphia hates fashion.